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polishing

  • WP G POLOSHING SYSTEM
  • CORRECTIVE POLISHING
  • SURFACE POLISHING
  • FINISHING POLISHING

The most important feature of Wolf’s chemical’s WP G polishes is the complex formula. This feature is true to most of our WP 0S, WP 1G, WP 3G, WP 5G, WP 6G polishes. The polish converts the whole surface when you use them, thats why conservating, scratch removing and polishing are made into one easy step.


WP G COMPLEX FORMULA = the best rate of surface moisturizer and abrasives


You can polish with excenter or DA polisher easily using Wolf’s WP G series, with less effort, the polishes have it’s effect with polishing toppings. Polishing is made easy in every scenario, with the easy press (also leveling) and with less time to polish.


Wolf’s WP G polishes:



WP 6G heavy cut polish for leveling, deep cutting, and hard lacquers.
WP 5G cutting polish for usual lacquers
WP 3G one step and finishing polish
WP 1G finishing polish

You may use WP 0S glaze or WP 0G hard wax for conservating the surface.

The WP G series polishes providing a wide range of variability, with these you can make any kind of polishing.


ADVICES FOR POLISHING WITH MACHINE


The polishing method is always being decided by the given surface!
You have to consider about 3 main point of views when using WP G series polishes with machines:

1. Hardness of lacquer

We can stand a usual rule to consider the type and hardness of car lacquers by the make. BMW, Mercedes, Audi , WV, Volvo cars are produced with hard lacquer. You should use heavy cutting polish with whool pad, for polishing these lacquers.

Ford, Opel, Skoda, Seat, Suzuki cars are made with usual hardness of lacquer. For the polishing of these cars you need to use heavy or medium-heavy cutting polishes and medium hard polishing pads.

Nissan, Honda, Subaru cars are usually made with softer lacquer. For the polishing of these cars you need to use lighter non-cutting (one-step) polish and a soft pad.

You always have to choose the right polish and the right pad depending on the hardness of the lacquer.

2. Polishing goal:

Making a deep polish (correction), when we disappearing many of the swirls(deep, even microns deep, less deep, washing swirls). Or making the surface glossy without disappearing deeper swirls and closing it with wax. In these cases we are talking about the particular, full filling, and glazing of the surface.

3. The temperature of the polished surface and the environment.

Every machinery polish has its own optimal temperature when it can work most efficiently. At the heavy cut polishes this temperature is higher (even 40-50 Cº), at one-step polishes this temperature is not as high (30-40 Cº), at finishing polishes the temperature of the surface is low. The temperature of the polished surface is growing. You have to pay attention to the warming be happen, but do not exceed the optimal temperature of the used polish, and you should also pay attention to keep the most optimal temperature for the used polish.

If the applied polish doesn’t warm up to the optimal temperature, it may making swirls instead of getting rid of them. By then, the polishing is going to be ineffective. As the surface’s temperature gets too hot, the polis may burn into the paint. At this time, removing the polish, and the lacquer might not be possible leaving the surface witout a shine.

When you are polishing, you have to consider the surrounding environment’s temperature and the temperature of the surface you are about to polish. The polish reacts in different ways as the seasons change, for example, in the summer when the surface is warm, and when the weather is about 15-20 Cº in colder areas. You can compensate the optimal polishing temperature by increasing or reducing the speed of your machine. In cold weather, It is better to work smaller surface areas with less polish.

In regards of the mentioned advices above, you should not polishing indoor or outdoor when the temperature is under 15Cº. Keep the polish from low or freezing temperatures.